Woodsport - Engine Conversion Specialists

  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size
Woodsport Products

Please note that all of my products have a 7-10 day lead time as they are made to order.

V6 Engine Mount - for 3VZ-FE and 1MZ-FE engine

NOTE: PLEASE EMAIL ME at Paul@woodsport.org WITH YOUR MOUNT TYPE AFTER ORDERING, 3VZ OR 1MZ, THANKYOU!

After many years of carrying out these V6 conversions for customers we have decided to launch a brand new engine mount for homebuilders. This mount allows the DIY V6 builder to hang a V6 engine in an Mr2 engine bay without any welding or fabrication work, you don't even need to remove the standard mount from the V6 engine block. This new mount interfaces between the V6 and the Mr2 chassis and features laser cut components, all new rubber bush and spacer tube, so this kit has everything you need to install your V6 engine.

This is the new Woodpsort V6 engine mount painted black, the silver part is the original bracket that bolts to the V6 engine block.

The mount allows the original timing belt cover mounting points to be retained, something that was missing from previous versions. Please email me to let me know which version you require, so 3vz or 1mz, there is a slight difference between the two, and if i get the order through without confirmation i will assume it is a 3vz version, i cannot issue a refund if you make a mistake or fail to let me know which one you require, my email is Paul@woodsport.org but you can checkout for the mount below.

Upon ordering, the mount will be made next working day and shipped within 2 days of your order.

Please note the 1mz-fe version will also fit the 3mz-fe engine as well, so please order the 1mz version if you're installing a 3mz engine, thank you.

The price is £95 plus shipping (£10 within the UK)

PLEASE EMAIL ME at Paul@woodsport.org WITH YOUR MOUNT TYPE UPON ORDERING, 3VZ OR 1MZ, THANKYOU!

Product
WS3VZMNT
V6 Engine Mount
Price/Unit
£ 95.00
Qty

Customer feedback

"Received my mount this morning, excellent build quality. Can't wait to get the engine transplant going now, thanx very much for the mount Paul. It actually weighs less than I thought it would, and is a piece of art indeed"- P5ycho-Twobrutal member.

"The mount looks realy good! Nicely finished and even sturdy enough for the most brutal engines. It's realy worth the money!" - Resolve-Twobrutal member.

"My review of the Woodsports 1MZ / 3MZ passenger side engine mount.
Normally you need to tweak after market parts to fit. You know, file this, file that, expand this hole or that hole. Touch up the paint.
None of that was needed with this part. It arrived fast from England. It looked OEM using a satin black paint. The welds looked OEM. Hardware was included, and it was not cheap Chinese made gear.
We installed the engine into the bay, put the mount in place on the engine, applied some blue locktite to the 2x allen head bolts. aligned the holes and bolted the mount in place.
The mount comes with a spacer as the rubber isolator is about 1/2 the size of the stock Mk2 mount. But as the side mounts only support the engines weight, this is not an issue. We easily figured out which side the spacer went on, as the engine sits crooked if you assemble it wrong, easily spotted and easily fixed if you do it wrong the first time.
Next we lined up the isolator with the chassis mount, installed the long bolt also adding some blue locktite, as I slid the bolt in, I lined up the spacer, and tightened it down.
simple.
The easiest mod I have done on this car."
- Mr Bill Strong, Owner of the MR2OC.COM/Racing Strong Motorsports

"Thank you paul. The mounts looks better than a factory. One. I recently bought the front one from toyota and its not only expensive but also worth less. Your mount its built with high quality and customer satisfaction in mind. Thank you. Its worth every Penny . " - Mauricio- USA

Woodsport Mk1 TD engine lid

Here is our TD replica engine lid for the Mk1 Mr2, it allows much bigger engine fitment such as the 2gr-fe

or can be used to get more cooling/ventilation in the Mr2 engine bay, or purely for the aggressive styling.

All lids come in primer and are ready to fit.

The price of the lid is £225 with no exchange lid, i will refund you £25 on receipt of your old lid.

The lids underwebbings can either be left as they are on a stock Mk1 or cut away leaving the lid fully open for extra fan fitment etc, please ask for your preference on ordering...

Product
WSMK1TD
Mk1 TD lid
Price/Unit
£ 225.00
Qty

Woodsport universal wide arch kit

The wide arch kits that we fit to a variety of Mr2's will also fit ANY other vehicle, it is simply a matter of trimming each arch to the required width.These arches will work in any width from 1" to 5" or 6" on a totally flat panel.

Price for a set of four arches is £180

Mk2 with a full set fitted.

Product
WSARCH
Wide arch kit
Price/Unit
£ 180.00
Qty

Woodsport Mk1 Airscoop (passenger/left side only)

Here we have a fantastic replica of the original Toms scoop for the Mk1, but with a much better quality of finish, also available painted in any colour but please contact me via email about that before buying. Paul@woodsport.org

Product
WSMK1SCOOP
Airscoop
Price/Unit
£ 85.00
Qty

Woodsport BC replica Mk1 front lip

If anyone remembers the famous Buddy club front lip for the Mk1 that used to be available many moons ago? No longer in production i decided to produce this replica that is the same as the original BC lip except it is now a two piece design exactly like the OEM Mk1b lip is.

This means it will fit perfectly and bolt on to the factory bolt holes.

You cannot buy this lip anywhere, they are the holy grail of Mk1 bodykit parts, a more aggressive and beefier styled version of the Mk1b lip this design has proved extremely popular in Japan and the US.

It will also fit a Mk1a with slight modification, more on that below.

For now here is the original lip fitted to a Mk1...

 

Here is the Woodsport replica version fitted to a Mk1....

 

As you can see our version has the two piece OEM join, just like the Mk1b lip...

This is a quality product with perfect fitment (assuming your Mk1 front end is straight!)

The lip will only require light sanding of the gelcoat surface before painting.

This lip is not cheap to produce so it does have a bit of a price tag, but for those that know what it is they are buying will know they are impossible to get hold of. Quite simply the best looking aftermarket lip you can get.

They are £190 each and £20 postage within the UK, postage to the US is £70

Product
WSBClip
Woodsport BC replica lip
Price/Unit
£ 190.00
Qty

Any questions just ask, thanks Paul.

Woodsport Mk1 MR2 Manual Choke Conversion Kit

For quite a few years now I’ve had countless MK1s coming to the garage with the same old problems. They all seem to be prone to the same fault sooner or later at some time in their life. We are all aware of the infamous 5th gear popping out on post 120,000 mile cars and drop link failure from 60,000+. However one aspect of MK1 troubles has escaped any real attempt to cure the problem and that is with the waxstat idle valve. I’d say most mk1's I see have a problem with this valve, for those of you who are unaware of its function it keeps the idle high on the engine during starting until the engine has warmed up. This however raises a few problems and far be it for me to criticize the design of our beloved cars I’m afraid Toyota didn’t quite get it right when it came to the cold start system. The problem lies in quite a few layers, one of which is the annoyance that even if you have a fully functioning waxstat valve with no problems at all it seems to take forever (especially during the colder months) for the idle to return to normal after starting. Indeed I’ve noticed on many occasions that it sometimes takes up to 3 miles of driving before it settles to 900rpm. Many of you won’t be aware that there is in fact no need for the waxstat valve to stay open this long and in fact a few hundred yards of driving or 60 seconds of idling sees it capable of doing without the choke. This in turn means that for an extra 2 miles or so the engine is drawing in more air than it needs and in addition is being supplied with the extra fuel to compensate…not good for our fuel economy!

The waxstat basically allows extra air to be drawn past the throttle to simulate throttle being applied when the engine is cold, the map sensor informs the ECU that this extra air requires fuel and that’s our choke. The second waxstat problem is that frequently they stick open, that is, even though the engine has reached running temperature there’s still an extra amount of air leaking past the throttle and the ECU allows more fuel for that. However the ECU is now being told by the throttle position sensor that the throttle is shut, so on the one hand its being told I have the throttle open (the air leak) please give me fuel, and on the other hand the TPS says throttle shut reduce fuel and the end result is a surging idle as the ECU battles in conflict between the sensors. I’m sure at one time or another we have all witnessed this surging idle when the cooling system has become air locked or the waxstat has stuck open.

The system I came up with is merely an “add on” which can be removed from the engine at any time with no side effects. The standard waxstat is simply disabled by blocking off its auxiliary air supply with a plastic tyre valve cap, indeed many of you will be aware of this mod as a cheap fix for a waxstat that has given up permanently. The manual system consists of a 12v switching air solenoid that plumbs directly to the throttle body and feeds from filtered air on the air filter piping, there’s no holes to drill and no modifications need to be made to the standard set up. A simple wiring consisting of one wire to the battery + and another wire running forward to the dashboard onto a switch is all that’s required to make this work. It took me many months of searching for the right solenoid valve to come up with one with the correct flow rate for the job.

A new Waxstat valve from Toyota is over £180 and will still mean your cold idle will be way too high and for too long. My manual choke kit cures the problem for good and vastly improves the cold driving. The kit is supplied with full fitting instructions which can be done by anyone with very basic skills and hardly any tools.

Cure the bouncing or high idle for good!

Product
WSCHOKE
Mk1 Manual Choke kit
Price/Unit
£ 70.00
Qty

Woodsport Styleauto replica bumpers

Here we have a replica version of the Styleauto Mk1 bodykit bumpers, these are finished in Gelcoat and will require brackets making to fit your car, we do not supply a fitting kit with these, you will only receive the bumper skins as pictured. Also the front foglights are not included.

This front bumper is primarily designed to fit the Mk1a model, but will fit the Mk1b with minor modification.

As you can see the quality is excellent...

 

The rear bumpers will fit both Mk1a and b without modification.

Price is £195 each plus postage costs, or buyer can collect. There is a 10 day lead time on these as they are made to order, so you will receive them approx 2 weeks after placing your order.

PLEASE EMAIL ABOUT SHIPPING OPTIONS DEPENDING WHERE YOU ARE PRIOR TO ORDERING

Woodsport Mk1 Mr2 Bolt on wide wheel arches.

Our own wide arch product developed over years of listening to what Mk1 owners wanted from a wide arch bolt on product, our fibreglass Mk1 wide arches feature a unique design that fits flush over existing bodywork and sideskirts to give a very distinctive look. The arches can be riveted, screwed or bolted on with nice fasteners or alternatively bonded on and blended into the bodywork.

Some sanding of the gelcoat will be required prior to painting.

The price is £175 per set of four.

 

Shown is our BC rep front splitter fitted with the WS wide arch flares.

Product
WSMK1ARCH
Rivetwidearch
Price/Unit
£ 175.00
Qty

 

PLEASE EMAIL ABOUT SHIPPING OPTIONS DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU ARE PRIOR TO ORDERING

 



Woodsport Messenger

Testimonials

Dirans 2gr-fe powered Mk1 Mr2 Testimonial 

 

Glorious day on 21st of May 2010 and I find myself with a day’s holiday to get the train to Durham and then coast back down to the smoke. 

I arrived within 10 min of quoted time and spotted Paul’s E36. After escaping the station we got to chatting about work at WS and the amount of comments the project had been getting (!). This was not my aim and the car is not quite show-worthy despite the high standard of WS (it needs a bit of welding and paint on the original panels that I hadn’t budgeted for in the conversion) but it’s always nice to know there are like-minded people on the scene.

Arriving at WS, the car sat gleaming in the yard and I had already failed to suppress my grinning enthusiasm, much to the amusement of Phil and Anth! Pleased to meet you both gents 

I chatted with everyone and took ”the tour” – a captioned peek around many, many tasty MR2 in various states of undress / surgery, including a couple of 2GR powered examples besides my own (Owen’s Mk2 scarlet 355 and Phil’s Vader-esque MK2), as well as Moustachio’s v. Tidy MK1 1MZ, Rexer’s soon to be 2ZZ’d Mk1 and a certain, lesser known 4.2 litre, 32 valve Mk1..... A veritable sweet shop for any petrol head!

After a quick squirt around the yard in my car (I managed not to stall but was very pedestrian so Paul kindly demonstrated the G-forces available – suffice it to say I left a crease in the seat!), I handed over the obligatory pack of hob-nobs, we said our goodbyes and I set about dismantling 260+ miles of motorway. Of course, the M1 meant a disproportionate number of 50mph average speed check zones (yawn!). Bit of a waste, but one has to get home eventually!

The driving bit:

The first 50 miles or so were spent taking things easy and undertaking the customary vigilance on temperatures and pressures etc.. I’d filled up with 97RON which the car seemed to approve of. My immediate observation was that the car felt familiar yet completely different. The throttle seemed to have zero slack and combined with the less tolerant (but still manageable clutch) and uber short 1st gear meant decisive but restrained action was need to pull away smoothly at relatively sane pace. If you try to slip it, it will chatter – better to either feed it in swift and smooth with little or no throttle, or use semi-race technique of blip the throttle and let it in all-of-a-piece. This is fun but unsubtle because the revs flare angrily if you’re clumsy. It is hugely satisfying when you get it right though and I think a couple more weeks (I only drive on weekends). 

Tip: Setting off in 2nd or even 3rd is possible and much less likely to result in skippy-type antics. The rest of the time, you just launch like a jet being catapulted from an aircraft carrier (only with a better sound track).

The car is so ridiculously over-endowed with torque that third (to get going) and fifth (once rolling) are all that’s necessary if you like. 

Better still, the noise is intoxication personified and despite our effort brazenly loud  Three-fifths air-cooled 911, two-fifths Alfa V6, with a racer-ish blare as the revs get up. It remains relatively subdued on light openings but nice and exuberant with a tickle, rising to something truly intimidating (yet still melodic) when you explore the full travel. Exactly what such performance deserves in other words!

The brakes are strong and easy to modulate although I’m taking it easy on them to bed in the discs and pads. I’m still perfecting my rev matching (something that was very easy on the standard car) due to the slightly long travel on the brake pedal – perhaps a M/C upgrade will help firm it up? – and the throttle which is set quite high and is very sensitive (a good thing, if making inconspicuous progress tricky at very low speeds!). I might try relocating the throttle pedal to help as well – I do like a bit of heel and toe. 

The Drive By Wire itself is easy to get used to (had it before) although occasionally you get the sense that the engine is “adulterating” small inputs (perhaps for emissions purposes on the factory ECU) as no matter how smooth you are going on and coming off the throttle in normal driving, it will occasionally give you more than you were expecting or cut the fuelling more abruptly. I’m sure this can be cured as time goes on or calibrated with a bit of judicious tweaking but if not I’ll learn quickly to be even smoother with my inputs!

The SW20T gearbox is short and positive in a way the factory AW11 5 speeder could only dream of (in my opinion at least). Although it’s occasionally notchy it’s nicely weighted and satisfying to use – more so than the SW20 N/A’s I’ve driven. The Final drive is clearly shorter than ideal for the engine characteristics (it could happily pull a 3.6 ratehr than 4.2) but is entirely usable – a lower rev count at a cruise would be nice but you wouldn’t need a higher top end.

There’s no doubting the engine dominates the car. It’s not overbearing but you can definitely feel the proximity of a large (for the car!) lump and hear the valves / fuel pump clicking and zizzing away. Personally, I find it generally no less refined than the standard car, although for some it would not make for a sensible city or long distance car.

The pay off is a level of performance that is borderline scary. I’ve not fully explored this fully (understandably!) but even brief instances of more than 20% throttle get MiFu lunging at the horizon like it has afterburners instead of exhaust tips. Hard acceleration is violent, as Paul described, even before you get to half throttle and it feels no less nimble or wieldy so far despite weight gain and a bigger set of boots – just more planted. It also generates nice forces in the corners, allowing you to carry huge amounts of speed (as if it was necessary given the straight line fireworks).

The sense of a small car being hurled up the road by a quad cam V6 complete with ASBO-spec pipes is one of the most surreal and gratifying motoring experiences I’ve yet had - and I’ve been lucky enough to drive some fairly interesting cars. 

It is part fierce concentration, part fear, part exhilaration. After about 3-5 seconds of acceleration, you brake (backing off gives good engine braking effect but you’ll be going too fast anyway) you just pause, hanging on the inertia reel and marvelling at the noise, the ability of the car to outsprint your internal organs and blur your peripheral vision. Then you give an evil cackle.

It is an addictive trip having that sort of performance at your disposal. Almost as addictive is making people’s eyes pop out on stalks when a tiny, girly blue Toymotah makes a noise bigger than a TVR as it rockets up the road with a twitch of throttle - 5th is sufficient; 4th is showing off; 3rd is plain offensive as far as other road users are concerned. A declaration of violent intent, if you will. 

I hope to try a few vids this weekend to give you guys another taste, although no warranties as to quality or irresponsible antics!

This car is made of pure and unadulterated insanium and I love it.

There are some compromises and some work still to do, including improving the ventilation to the rad to avoid some of the heat soak issues I’ve been suffering during town driving (it has been hot weather lately – I plan on moving the license plate and getting a vented frunk lid asap); the fact I need to address the odd bit of bodywork (25 year old car = rust spots) and work out how to insulate the trunk from the rear bank (the access panel gets v. warm!) and make the frunk luggage friendly now there’s no spare…. but so far this car is everything I’d hoped for and much, much more